Murakoze, Rwanda! (thank you, Rwanda!)

We traveled to East Africa to learn, listen, and collect stories so that we may better know the beauty of the bright continent.  In both Tanzania and Rwanda, people welcomed us so warmly that we were able, in three short weeks, to accomplish these goals--and more.  As we depart, and as I write this final blog entry, I believe these 13 students are allies of Africa.  In our closing "gratitude for the group,"  students identified, universally, the value of our mature and open discussions.  In and outside of class, this group watched, reflected, deconstructed, and sought continuing revelation. Part of the reason we achieved this level of intellectual depth is because of the high level of investment each and every student brought to the work.  With joy and tireless curiosity, students started and closed each day fully present for the journey.  As trip leaders, we held a high bar and maintained an intense schedule. No traveler talked to family (including me:) for more than 10-15 minutes, no one utilized technology except to blog, and no one watched any media that did not relate to the purpose of our trip. Our two movie nights were both documentaries about Rwanda--including one magical night when filmmaker Eric Kabera opened his studio to our group for a private showing of Intore.  It was, as the kids might say, "a lot." I cannot imagine sharing this magical journey with a more committed group of students, and I am grateful to them for their strength, beauty, individuality, and goodness.  I am also grateful beyond belief for Lauren and Jess; the three of us make a great team and traveled as sisters (without the fighting:)  We all go in peace--made better by being here, and with a deep appreciation for this amazing opportunity. 

"I am grateful to Rwanda for..."

Afia:  how welcoming people have been.

Clara:  being able to prove so many stereotypes wrong.

Cole:  effectively using truth and reconciliation to recover.

Ellen:  teaching so much and opening my mind.

Ethan:  self-reliance and thinking outside the box.

Gabby:  engulfing me with a thousand hills.

Jess:  everyone was so honored to have us and we were so honored to be here. 

Hannah from South Africa:  "for the best trip ever!"

Julia:  everyone who had us for a visit or over for dinner.  It is hard to understand the extent to which people made us feel like family and feel so close to everyone. 

Kenny:   for teaching us to be partners.  

Laura:  the people who have been so welcoming.  everywhere we went, we were treated so kindly, like part of a family.

Lauren:  confirming my belief in love and optimism.

Michael:  the sense of community I have felt while here. 

Nathaniel:  to chance to breathe this air and live on this land.  I am also grateful for the warmth and hospitality.  In DC, when people wave, I do not always wave back, but here people always wave back.

Shields:  for showing us how an African nation can rise above and even lead the way.  

Tatiyana:  teaching me the importance of family, peace writ large, and, most importantly, the importance of inner peace.  

following our last class in the Highland Suites

A Poem for Rwanda

By: Tatiyana Lyn Lewis

Broken shards equal broken dreams

Scattered evenly across the galaxy

The stars glittering with the tales of those forgotten voices

That shrieked with terror and agony

As they met their fate

And those that are left let rivers flow through their eyes

Each drop that creates a stream

Tells the story of those who have ascended

And acts as a way to forever memorialize their lives

Their visions

Their hopes and dreams

They all had purpose

They were all a gift from God

Taken too soon by a seed the devil planted in the hearts of the weak and lost

Possessed they were and thrown into a deep slumber

And once the deed was done

They were awoken and left broken in two

The devil in red receded into the background

Laughing at the work he had done

Thinking he had destroyed a people and a land

But they have risen from the deep and dank abyss

Kicking dirt into the face of the one in red

Each step they take a flower grows through the cracks

Until a bountiful jungle springs

No evil lasts forever

Find peace and optimism with follow

Nothing of darkness will prosper 

in a land that God has breathed upon.

Sidwell gone Gorillas, by Julia

Julia on the way back down the mountain

With faces of awe and nettle-pricked bodies we made our way up the Rwandan hills this morning. Though the terrain was steep and rocky, we forged ahead towards the mountain gorillas We were not sure our bodies were going to be able to handle the trek due to our very early morning (alarms set to 5:45) and our lack of a substantial breakfast.  Gatored-up and anxious to begin we boarded our trucks and drove to the base of the mountain. Our trek was in one of Rwanda's three National Parks which is the home of multiple volcanoes (Don't worry parents they are dormant ;)  Our first challenge was to make it to a stone wall at the edge of the park. The wall is used to keep buffalo and other wildlife from leaving the park and invading neighboring homes and communities. This was probably the most difficult part of the morning due to the seemingly endless hill but we pushed through it. The beautiful scenery and picture-perfect view also helped motivate us as we hiked. You could really see why Rwanda is nicknamed "The Land of a Thousand Hills." Once we crossed the wall, our guides and trackers led us to the gorillas. We were all in complete astonishment when we came across the first one. We hadn't realized a giant silver-back would be so close to us. It just sat there eating it's leaves, sassily watching us take pictures. After moving further into the forest, we came across a whole family eating together. There was a black-back male, a mom and her baby. Soon the silver-back came to join them. As the baby swung from branches five feet from our faces and the two males bore their teeth and tore leaves from the trees, we knew we were witnessing a very natural and special moment that we could not have seen anywhere else. Though fear induced by close proximity to wild animals was a factor for some, we did not let it overcome our excitement. As it turned out the difficult journey up the mountain had been worth it. After an hour with the gorillas we made our way back down the mountain. We all felt like we were one with nature. As we crossed the road back to the trucks we felt so accomplished and proud of our amateur hiking skills. No hospital visits were necessary :)

Almost everyone got out of the forest alive...

Here is one group before tracking!

Our tracker struggled to fit us all in the frame of the pic, but here is one group after tracking!

Below are pics from the experience :)  Sadly, we were divided into 2 groups, so the pics below reflect one group's experience.  Pics aplenty upon arrival home!  (I tried to load individual sd cards from the other group--got too complicated for a night where sleep was in order for kids who have an early-morning departure for Akagera!)

Pyrethreum Field

more wildlife as we walked back down the volcano!

Saving a Species One Gorilla at a Time, by Hannah

Today, we focused on the constant struggle between conservation and the expansion of farmland. We began our day by visiting the Mountain Gorilla Veterinary Project (MGVP). We were greeted by Dr. Mike Cranfield--the co-director. As he began talking, it was evident that Dr. Mike was not only extremely educated on the subject of gorilla conservation, but also incredibly passionate. MGVP is composed of 15 vets and has bases in Uganda, Rwanda and Congo. Its goal is to treat animals in their original habit with a focus on preventing and curing disease. The NGO sends vets into the mountains 2-3 times a week to check on gorillas; along with this they have a 24-hour orphan care center to allow babies that have lost their mother to have a second chance in the wild. I was really interested to hear about all of the health risks for gorillas that come with tourism. Dr. Mike explained that when humans go up into the mountains, we expose the gorillas to viruses that they are not accustomed to (such as measles and malaria). The project itself has tried to take many steps to avoid any sort of transmission of diseases, such as doing a monthly heath check on their employees and requesting that tourists wear masks when going on treks.

In the second half of the day we got to visit ex-poachers in a community center set up by Edwin Sabuhoro. This for me was a really powerful moment of the day, as I got to see a alternate option to just telling people that they can't hunt. In the center we got to see a model of the kings palace, as well as receive a performance by baTwa people of dance and drumming. After this, Edwin explained to us the vision he had when setting up this center. We learned that many people in Rwanda hunted and poached as a means to feed their families, so, when the idea of conservation was introduced people did not understand why these animals needed to be protected, and felt as though they had not other method for getting food on their tables. Edwin realized that unless you focused on people in the community, conservation would be unable to happen. He went into a poaching village and lived with the men and earned their trust. It was after he did this that he asked all of the men to come together for a meeting and discuss the effects that poaching had. He proposed the idea of a community in which poachers could earn a living another way and incorporate youth into the equation. Edwin set up a small center where women could weave baskets that would then be sold and gave all of the men employment in the community. He also allowed children to learn the importance of the forest and be porters for tourists visiting the mountain. The community is now earning 30,000 dollars a year. Edwin’s idea was not only inspiring to all of us, but also showed us that by concentrating on the community, good effects are bound to happen. Edwin was named a CNN hero and is currently getting his PhD in Conservation and Tourism in the United States (at Clemson University).

Today was not only educational but also extremely powerful. We got to see a direct correlation between community and land.  Further, our article for today focuses on the colonial nature of wildlife conservation.  Food for thought.  

We can’t wait for trekking, especially now that we know so much more about our own role in the process!  

Clara and Michel Masozera from Wildlife Conservation Society

Ethan and Dr. Mike

Group at MGVP

A welcoming experience at Green Journeys Africa--a local NGO focused on rehabilitating former poachers into the community

Intore Dancer

Kenny and Gabby were elected King and Queen Mother

Nathaniel and the gecko he found

Reflections on class during summer study, by Shields

Today, we enjoyed a beautiful drive from Kigali to Musanze in the northern district of Rwanda. Along the way, we witnessed what is one of the most distinctive and beautiful features of life in Africa--the roadside.  Rwanda is no exception to other African nations in that a long drive affords insight into the deeply communal nature of life.  While there are many cars and trucks on the road (here, one will see caravans of trucks delivering goods to Congo, for example--often with bicyclers hitching a ride on the back of the caravan), one sees people walking to work, school, or market. We see people walking in the US, but it is often far less robust of a walk--either for exercise, a stroll, or to catch a bus.  Here, walking is so full of vibrancy, purpose, and joyful necessity.  One will see children walking together hand in hand or kicking a soccer ball made of bags and twine, women walking with babies on their backs and baskets of oranges or grasses on their heads,  or men walking children to school.  Today, I saw a women carrying a large metal girder on her head, a baby on her back, and three kids in school uniform at her side.  I also caught so many beautiful moments--women smiling with their children and kids playing a game of baseball with what looked like limitless energy.  So much gets done on foot!  Of course, the backdrop is also breathtaking:  waterfalls, mountains, purple flower petals blowing in the wind.  Rwanda is gorgeous.  Thus, it is a special joy to do what I love so much--teach--in this environment!  Tonight, we had class outside in a garden at the Muhabura Hotel as dusk settled.  The kids sat in a shape with no name and we had our second of several discussions focused on conservation (today marks our shift from a deep focus on gender to a concentrated focus on land).  Class began with laughter and Kenny hunting for a pen I hid for him in the garden.  Tonight, Ethan led class and, as with all of our classes, the students brought a depth that is unparalleled.  Having taught all of these students in Room 210, it is affirming to see their growth here.  Students who hardly spoke a word in our traditional classroom setting have been contributing three or four times in a class here.  Without a single complaint, they have worked their way through our 600 page reader.  Most of the readings are long and all are theoretical, complex pieces from peer-reviewed journals.  They incorporate the reading into their personal insights with ease; I am so grateful for this chance to see them shine and grow. As well, I appreciate the chance to learn from them.  We are all learning so much! I want to close with a quote from Ethan from his wrap-up at the end of class--a perfect message to consider as we embark on visits with ex-poachers and the gorillas themselves--and following a discussion about how best to balance the needs of the poor who need the land, the land itself, and the animals who live on the land:   "Animals deserve a place at the table even if they cannot speak for themselves."

Life before Colonialism, by Cole

The group started the day relatively early in order to get to the Rwandan National Ethnographic Museum located in Butare.  We were greeted by a large group of the staff, which included Alphonse who is the director of the Museum. He was quite an eccentric man, who had British accent as a result of him fleeing to the United Kingdom during the 1994 Genocide. Alphonse informed us that the Museum had 7 galleries, which varied from Stone Age technology to clothing and games. The first exhibit that I visited was about Rwanda’s geography and featured an interesting topographic which showcased why Rwanda is called the land of one thousand hills. The temporary exhibit at the museum was also very interesting. Our tour guide explained to us that Rwanda went from the Stone Age straight to the Iron Age while skipping the Bronze Age completely.  I found the early version of the umbrella that was on display to be especially fascinating. The umbrella was shaped like a large cone but with half of it hollowed out so that someone could fit in it. The umbrella protected the wearer from the rain while still leaving both hands free. My favorite future of the museum was either the the glass case that displayed Rwandan money from the past century or the room that showcased the 120 different spears used in precolonial Rwanda.  These Rwamukire (ritual spears) were called the "axes of justice."  They were displayed by the King's palace so that all who entered passed first through the "trees of blessing" and then under the spears, as if taking an "oath of truth."  We also learned that in Rwanda, the drum played a central role in determining the leader of the people.  While it is common amongst African societies for leadership to be associated with a stool, here, the drum is the most central marker of authority.  Our new and good friend John, who has been with us since Zanzibar, was also able to point out a picture that included his father who was part of the Tutsi elite before the 1959 massacre. 

We ate lunch at a charming little restaurant that had been converted from a house.  Lunch was served buffet style, which included dishes of skewered lamb, potatoes, and salad. Following lunch, we took a short walk down to a lake where we saw multiple types of birds.  We then took a bus ride to the Kings Palace, where we saw the traditional buildings where Kings and their wives would live.  We were all very excited to visit the Inyambo, or Royal Cattle, which were all very majestic in their own way. Each of the individual cows has their own songs which when sung by the caretaker would result in a certain member of the cattle mooing loudly followed by a lazy trot forward.  We were then taken to the first palace in Rwanda, which was built to fit the western idea of a king’s residence. Most of the furniture in the palace was original and quite stylish for each of their age. Our two-hour return trip back to Kigali allowed us more time to take in the beautiful rolling hills of the Rwandan countryside, which are similar to the ones of Tuscany. We had dinner at restaurant called Bourbon where I was able to enjoy a cup of a white chocolate mocha. Our classes continue to be robust and informative; tonight we discussed an article that explores "congruence theory" in relation to gender. Overall, I enjoyed a day that was full of learning, which was supplemented by the tasty cuisine on the side.

(p.s. there is another new post below)

Look at the crack in the sidewalk I found! It looks like Africa!

 

yummy dinner after a fun day--one only a few meals we ate inside the whole trip!